After overpaying ("Sorry, but I have no small notes to give you" - gestured the cabbie with a shrug, for he spoke no English) I walked over to a mid-priced hotel mentioned in the guidebook, hoping they'd have a room. The old, broadly-built, short cabbie in a weathered suit and gold-capped teeth smiled, cursed at lousy drivers, spat at least once at an overtaker, and honked at the cops for they had sealed off several roads, including the approach to my hotel - hence the hike. On the way, there was a fiesta in a nearby park - kids dressed up, singing and dancing. My sophisticated reaction: "Hmmm...??!!"
A quick check-in later, I hit the streets, noticing an increasing number of folks, many waving flags, as I walked to the center. On Mashtots Ave, there was a stage with colorfully dressed performers doing solo and group dances and songs. All roads were pedestrian.
Back on the main Republic Square, packed with people, streets packed too, and cafes overflowing. On the main strip Abovyan, by the Golden Tulip a jazzy quartet on stage. An onlooker explained that it was the "city day".
Settling finally down at a fancy restaurant ("Dolmama"), I asked the waiter again, and he explained it was the "birthday of Yerevan city". The city traces itself back to the 7th century B.C., - "before Rome", many tour guides repeated. I sipped an excellent Armenian red, waiting for my trout manti.
What a way to arrive!
On the way back, Republic Square had absolutely filled up. Live performers on stage, presumably Armenian pop stars. Little groups making space to dance amidst the crowd. Weaving through was an exercise that, however, I am well-trained in. The Marriott was shut, only allowing guests (and me of course - it's good to look different and be clueless some times) but the bar was awful. I went back to my shitty hotel, sipped a beer on the al-fresco bar and watched people. I need a separate article for the girls.
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