...Is how the guide book describes Kars. Well, I am right at the summit of the disused Kars castle. Apprehensions over Turkey, particularly deep Anatolian country are unwarranted. It's been hassle-free and even the complete lack of Turkish language skills so far has not been a problem. (Lonely Planet's fault: you cannot get e-versions if you want a *whole* book. It's only for chapters. I wanted the whole bloody phrasebook)
Here I am in this Eastern corner, almost near Armenia - to which this city once served as the capital - and it sinks in. Georgian churches, Russian buildings, Armenian legacy. There is way too much to discover in this land.
Sent from outer space.
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